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Carol Patterson

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Watching crocodiles in Costa Rica

July 22, 2016 by CarolPatterson Leave a Comment

(story by Carol Patterson originally printed in Red Deer Advocate Saturday February 7, 2015)
Costa Rica’s 111-kilometer long Tarcoles River is one of the most polluted water bodies in Latin America. Plastic and paper litters the brown water’s edge and is embedded in the muddy banks.

When seasonal floodwaters recede, ribbons of trash demarcate high water points. Sewage from interior cities and towns drains into the river. It is a horrible place to swim.

Tarcoles Rivers has one of the world's highest concentrations of crocodiles
Tarcoles Rivers has one of the world’s highest concentrations of crocodiles

But if you are a crocodile the warm, nutrient-rich water are a feeding bonanza. Dozens of American crocodiles line the riverbanks sunbathing in statue-like stillness. Others ply the water for a meal, their nostrils and unblinking eyes the only hint of the killing machine below. With an estimated 25 crocodiles per square kilometer, the river has one of the highest croc populations in the world.

Most people would not see Tarcoles River as a potential tourism attraction, but where others saw lemons, one man saw an opportunity for lemonade.

Dr. Mario F. Orjuela, a veterinarian from Columbia who specialized in crocodiles, iguanas, snakes and toads, was struck by the area’s richness on his first visit in 1993.

Tarcoles River is one of the most polluted in the world
Tarcoles River is one of the most polluted in the world

“While undertaking survey expeditions and night excursions, I began thinking of a way to show this hidden treasure to visitors, to let them know in an educative way about the fascinating creatures and the ecosystem of this tropical paradise. And so the ‘Jungle Crocodile Safari’ was born,” he once said.

Orjuela died several years ago – a victim of crime, not crocodiles- but his company lives on.

Over 6,000 people come from around the world each year to see these muscular river juggernauts. Two-hour tours on covered boats with open sides allow unobstructed views of 100- plus bird species and the main event, crocodile feeding.

Staff member, Willie, greeted our group and explained the challenges of co-existing with reptiles that bite is fifty times stronger than a humans, “There are two words to describe crocodiles – prehistoric and unpredictable.”

So it was with some anxiety that I watched our guide, Andrey sidle our boat up next to a very big croc and cut the engine. “This is Tyson,” Andrey said, pulling the croc’s tail into the boat and pointing out where National Geographic researchers had made a notch, “he’s the biggest crocodile on the river and named after Mike Tyson, the fighter.”

Visitors get a chance to see a crocodile tail up-close
Visitors get a chance to see a crocodile tail up-close

Tyson didn’t seem to mind the tail handling and lay with an unblinking stare that could mean either ‘I’m full’ or “you look like my next meal”. Andrey left the safety of the boat and stepped into the chocolate-colored mud a meter from Tyson’s head with a kilogram of raw chicken in his hand.

Realizing a bad day on my job was never as grim as a good day for a crocodile guide, Andrey proceeded to swat 300 kilograms of wild crocodile on the nose with raw meat.

Crocodiles are capable of great speed bursts and I wondered how Andrey knew if the croc would be satisfied with the chicken or go for the whole enchilada.

Tyson didn’t appear interested in the free meal so Andrey readjusted his position, moving slowly to avoid losing his footing on the slippery bank, before hitting the croc harder. Tyson’s jaws opened, shutters clicked in rapid staccato, and the chicken disappeared.

Andrey jumped back in the boat.

Guides offer crocodiles meat for better photo opportunities
Guides offer crocodiles meat for better photo opportunities

“Is this a well-paying job?” I asked, thinking the risk of losing a limb would be well compensated, but apparently not.

“If I want to support a family, I will need to get another job,’ he replied.

However Andrey’s efforts have their own rewards. Since the tours started, crocodiles kill fewer fishermen. Willie said, “We try to feed the crocodiles up river and away from the mouth of the river where the fishermen are. And we have removed 10,000 tires from the river. It is the cleanest it has ever been.”

While Tarcoles River still looked polluted to me, the signs advertising crocodile tours scattered through Tarcoles town indicated Dr. Orjuela’s vision had been realized. Visitors are seeing the biotic richness of the Tarcoles River and locals are seeing richness from crocodiles and the tourism dollars they bring.

If you decide to go:

Jungle Crocodile Safaris offers tours four times a day in nine boats. http://www.junglecrocodilesafari.com/index.php

Accommodations in Tarcoles town are limited. Consider staying in the resort town of Jaco 17 kilometers away. http://www.visitjacocostarica.com

To see my video on crocodile tourism go to http://bit.ly/1DoiI6A

Filed Under: Costa Rica Tagged With: costa rica, crocodile, ecotourism, nature, nature tourism, rural tourism, sustainable tourism, wildlife tours

The ultimate in turning lemons into lemonade

March 10, 2015 by CarolPatterson Leave a Comment

Tarcoles River CrocodileCosta Rica’s 111-kilometer long Tarcoles River is one of the most polluted water bodies in Latin America. Plastic and paper litters the brown water’s edge and is embedded in the muddy banks. When seasonal floodwaters recede, ribbons of trash demarcate high water points. Sewage from interior cities and towns also drain into the river. It is a horrible place to swim.
But if you are a crocodile the warm, nutrient-rich water are a feeding bonanza. Dozens of American crocodiles line the riverbanks sunbathing in statue-like stillness. Others ply the water for a meal, their nostrils and unblinking eyes the only hint of the killing machine below. With an estimated 25 crocodiles per square kilometer, the river has one of the highest croc populations in the world.

Most people would not see Tarcoles River as a potential tourism attraction, but where others saw lemons, one man saw an opportunity for lemonade. Dr. Mario F. Orjuela, a veterinarian from Columbia who specialized in crocodiles, iguanas, snakes and toads, was struck by the area’s richness on his first visit in 1993. “While undertaking survey expeditions and night excursions, I began thinking of a way to show this hidden treasure to visitors, to let them know in an educative way about the fascinating creatures and the ecosystem of this tropical paradise. And so the ‘Jungle Crocodile Safari’ was born,” he said.

Dr. Orjuela died several years ago – a victim of crime, not crocodiles- but his company lives on. Over 6,000 people come from around the world each year to see these muscular river juggernauts. Two-hour tours on covered boats with open sides allow unobstructed views of 100+ bird species and the main event, crocodile feeding.

When I took a tour with Miles Phillip and his Texas A&M AgriLife Extension best practices’ tour, we met up with one of the Jungle Crocodile Safari’s managers. Willie, explained the challenges of co-existing with reptiles that bite is fifty times stronger than a humans, “There are two words to describe crocodiles – prehistoric and unpredictable.”

So it was with some anxiety that I watched our guide, Andrey sidle our boat up next to a very big croc and cut the engine. “This is Tyson,” Andrey said, pulling the croc’s tail into the boat and pointing out where National Geographic researchers had made a notch, “he’s the biggest crocodile on the river and named after Mike Tyson, the fighter.”

Tyson didn’t seem to mind the tail handling and lay with an unblinking stare that could mean either ‘I’m full’ or “you look like my next meal”. Andrey left the safety of the boat and stepped into the chocolate-colored mud a meter from Tyson’s head with a kilogram of raw chicken in his hand. Realizing a bad day on my job was never as grim as a good day for a crocodile guide, Andrey proceeded to swat 300 kilograms of wild crocodile on the nose with raw meat.

Crocodiles are capable of great speed bursts and I wondered how Andrey knew if the croc would be satisfied with the chicken or go for the whole enchilada. Tyson didn’t appear interested in the free meal so Andrey readjusted his position, moving slowly to avoid losing his footing on the slippery bank, before hitting the croc harder. Tyson’s jaws opened, shutters clicked in rapid staccato, and the chicken disappeared. Andrey jumped back in the boat. “Is this a well-paying job?” I asked, thinking the risk of losing a limb would be well compensated, but apparently not. “If I want to support a family, I will need to get another job,’ he replied.

However Andrey’s efforts have their own rewards. Since the tours started, crocodiles kill fewer fishermen. Willie said, “We try to feed the crocodiles up river and away from the mouth of the river where the fishermen are. And we have removed 10,000 tires from the river. It is the cleanest it has ever been.”

While Tarcoles River still looked polluted to me, the signs advertising crocodile tours scattered through Tarcoles town indicated Dr. Orjuela’s vision had been realized. Visitors are seeing the biotic richness of the Tarcoles River and locals are seeing richness from crocodiles and the tourism dollars they bring. An excellent example of turning lemons into crocodile-style lemonade!

TWEETABLES

The ultimate in turning lemons into lemonade via @Reinventure – Click to Tweet.

Find out how one of the most polluted water bodies in Latin America has turned into a tourist attraction: Click to Tweet.

Discover why visitors are now seeing the biotic richness of the Tarcoles Rivers instead of the pollution: Click to Tweet.

Filed Under: Costa Rica Tagged With: adventure, costa rica, crocodile, crocs, Dr. Mario F. Orjuela, latin america, reinventure, tarcoles river

Does Money Grow On Trees?

October 14, 2014 by CarolPatterson Leave a Comment

Rainforest Chocolate TourContrary to what your parents may have told you, money does grow on trees. Or, at least it did in Costa Rica from 1909 to 1929. That is when beans from the cacao tree – the source of chocolate – were so highly prized they became Costa Rican’s currency. Cacao grows well in Costa Rica’s tropical climate; San Jose – Costa Rica’s capital – was the third city in the world to get public electricity because its cacao was so valuable. Only Paris and New York plugged in ahead.
My thoughts on chocolate had been limited to the calorie count of dessert so when I saw the Rainforest Chocolate Tour sign in Costa Rica’s La Fortuna region, it seemed a pleasant way to research chocolates’ role in economic development.

We were introduced to Lolita, a rescued Mealy parrot acting as rainforest greeter, and Carlos Chavarria, the company founder. Carlos joked, “Fifty percent of the guides here are called Carlos and the other fifty percent are named Jose.” But there was nothing common about Carlos’s passion for chocolate. He led us into the forest, stopping to point at a short, stout tree with broad leaves – Theobroma cacao.

Chavarria explained how cacao trees are pruned short so people can easily reach the fruit, and that a tree has to be four years old before producing fruit. Carlos gathered mango-sized pods from below the tree and asked us to crack one open. It was harder than it looked. A few solid blows against a wooden bench eventually exposed milky-colored flesh cushioning a dozen beans (called seeds after processing). Our first job was to suck the fleshy fruit and reveal the beans.

The beans were then gathered to ferment and dry for several days in a goldilocks-style rack system – workers ensure not too much or too little sun reach the beans. Because we had only two hours, Chavarria spotted us some dried beans and we moved into a canvas-covered amphitheater where the chocolate magic occurred.

The seeds were cleaned, then roasted and ground into small shards of shell and cacao nibs. Winnowing separated the chaff from our prize – raw cacao that was then rolled into a paste. A smiling assistant stirred milk and sugar into the cacao over a low flame.

We were paid for our labor in making chocolate to make the tour more interactive (we didn’t do enough to merit genuine reimbursement). Our wages were the cacao beans that once formed Costa Rica’s currency and we could keep them as a souvenir or use them to buy more chocolate. As I debated whether Canadian customs agents would ever let these beans across the border, Chavarria said, “In the 19th century, your fifteen beans would have been enough to buy a turkey.” Sure livestock would not get into Canada, I decided to indulge in a chocolate spending spree.

Costa Rica no longer uses cacao beans for currency, but the crop is still important to the country. In 1960, 70% of the world’s cacao was produced in Central America, but exports plummeted after crops were decimated by fungus. By 1975, over 80% of the world’s cacao was coming from West Africa where labor costs were less. Now, Costa Rica is enjoying a cacao resurgence. With the discovery of health-producing flavonoids in chocolate, Costa Rica has focused on growing fine-flavor cacao for organic and specialty chocolate products. “The best cacao with flavonoids and tryptophan comes from Central America,” boasted Chavarria. I sighed with relief. I could leave knowing eating chocolate was making me healthier, if not wealthier!

TWEETABLES

Does Money Grow on Trees? Click to Tweet.

Contrary to what your parents may have told you, money does grow on trees! Click to Tweet.

Did you hear … money grows on trees? Click to Tweet.

Filed Under: Costa Rica Tagged With: chocolate, costa rica, la fortuna, rainforest chocolate tour, reinventure, think like an explorer

You’re Never Too Old For Reinventure

April 8, 2014 by CarolPatterson Leave a Comment

Scarlet macawsScarlet macaws are the largest parrots in the world and even if you aren’t a birder, you will enjoy watching them. Bright red with flashes of blue, the sight of them flying gets your attention. Unfortunately, those colors also catch the attention of poachers who steal eggs and birds for the illegal pet trade.
Mr. Orlich of Punta Leona Hotel near Costa Rica’s Carara National Park reinvented his business at an age when many people are looking for a rocking chair. Although he had already set aside 300 hectares of his hotel property as a wildlife reserve, in his late sixties he realized he needed to change the attitudes of local people if conservation was going to succeed. He started a school program to inform local children about scarlet macaws and the need to protect them. His persistence has paid off as people are seeing more birds in the area. Proof you are never too old to reinvent your business or undertake a new adventure!

See more at http://youtu.be/aVJHrqkUsW0

TWEETABLES

Discover why these beautiful birds are at risk because of poachers who steal their eggs & birds for illegal pet trade. Click to Tweet.

Discover how you’re never too old for reinventure with this amazing story via @Reinventure. Click to Tweet.

This man is proof that you are never too old to reinvent your business or undertake a new adventure! Click to Tweet.

Filed Under: Costa Rica Tagged With: adventure, costa rica, costa rica's carara national park, explorer, reinvent business, reinventure, scarlet macaws

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